With the temperature in the shed around close to freezing I will salt the hide with pickling salt for a while before tanning it.I put the hide on a sheet of wood on a slant so it drains nicely.The salt will help to remove oil and if left to flint dry will set the hair so it does'nt slip. Since I want to make this hide for a bag/hat/pouch project I will slit this hide up the belly length wise.Other wise the hide could be left in a tube for a possible quiver also. I will hike the hide up to fit shorter for easier fleshing.Ī good amount of fat on most winter coons.I sometimes burn that inside my wood stove.It burns pretty hot.
Then fit hide back to nose to clean up around neck nicely. I then fit the hide over beam on the front legs to clean those areas up nicely.
I make that band a little wider as I go.You can see that at a little above the base of the tail the color of the hides' leather is still a very light shade of blue.This hide is not quite completely into it's prime yet but for the purpose I have for it it is close enough.A few more weeks and it would have been.A totally prime hides' leather will be white all the way down to the base of the tail.With coon this is the last area on it's hide that gets prime.If it's prime there you know for sure it is prime every where else.With experience a person can see this from the hair side long before skinning it.It's an eye a person gets for them to be able to buy and sell fur. Keep a pocket knife handy to trim grissle from around the ears.Īt first I generally go all the way down the backside to the tail with a good 4 to 5 inch wide band of flesh and fat removal. Lets get started to fleshing.I slip the tubed hide over the beam.Start on the face a bit fleshing and work my way down.It will be grissly and tough here but will get easier as I go down. The fleshing beam I use.A fiberglass cove over a tapered 2"by6".A 6 to 8 inch log beam can be used too.
#Tanner chemical burns chromium sulfate free
The fleshing knife I use.There are better but it has served me well.I've worn the wood handles off but still works great.Cost 40 years ago of $12.00.A free worn out lawn mower blade curved a bit can be used too OK here we go with some pics and commentary.įrom a frozen let to thawed state and before starting to flesh on a fleshing beam I make sure all mud,blood clots,or burs are removed from the hair with a stiff comb.Ī look at the flesh side before fleshing.
I've seen a couple of U tubes on this done by individuals and frankly,I would'nt be satisfied with the results.I'll get back to this thread when done to show results.
are kind of an investment for future tans or hide work & will get cheaper as more hides are tanned,but really a person can make their own tools for nothing also.My tools and equipment are pretty old I quess.A good 40 years I suppose.I invested into mine because I wanted to send & sell hides to Canada for a premium price opposed to selling them locally cheaper.Mainly coon/fox/& coyote.They have paid for themselves many many times over.Along the way I can show the fleshing and tools used and a good method of sewing up a holes and the measurements used of chemicals. Just for curious first time self tanners here.If any out there wants to see I've got a nice big old coon I shot out of my neighbors garage a while back that I can show an easy way to make a soft/pliable/durable/long shelf life type fur out of for a number of different projects.Something someone can do even inside a small apartment & at a very low cost overall.Keep in mind some of the expense for tools etc.
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